Politicisation of Food Culture – Regional Cuisine as a Political Tool
In spring 2001 the chairmanship of the European Union passed to Sweden for the first time. This was seen as an opportunity for Sweden to distinguish herself not just politically, but also culturally; accordingly a cultural profile was just as carefully devised as the political agenda. Among the cultural manifestations chosen for presentation to visiting EU politicians, Swedish food and food culture figured significantly as cultural markers. EU meetings were held at more than 80 locations. In each case local produce played an important role in the official meals. Menus were vetted by the ministry of foreign affairs, but only following thorough scrutiny from the LRF, the Federation of Swedish Farmers. The LRF also sponsored some of the meals (and in some cases catering staff, china, cutlery, etc.). A Swedish identity in the food served on such occasions is an important strategic goal for the LRF.
Game and wild produce (char, salmon, elk, capercaillie, lingonberries etc.) predominated at meeting s in the north of Sweden, cultivated produce (chicken, veal, sausage, asparagus, apples etc.) at those in the south. This reflects stereotypical perceptions in Sweden of the north as wild, and a source of raw materials for industry, as opposed to the south as a sophisticated region of cultivation and manufacture. This political use of regional cuisine and local products is a new way for politicians to increase perceived democratisation of the representative process, and to re-engage citizens (and voters). Regional food initiatives have become an important part of the EU's plan to build a new Europe by strengthening regional inf1uence and decreasing state inf1uence. Encouraging production of local foods has become a new way to regenerate regions suffering from depopulation and economic recession.